Monday, June 9, 2014

Motorcycle Manufacturers

Manufacturers currently in production

List of companies currently producing and selling motorcycles available to the public, including both street and race/off-road motorcycles. Does not include badge engineered bikes sold under a different name than their producer, nor motorcycle customisers.

Australia

Argentina

Austria

Bangladesh

Belarus

Brazil

China

Colombia

Czech Republic

France

Germany

Greece

India

Italy

Japan

South Korea

Malaysia

Mexico

Pakistan

Philippines

  • Rusi
  • SUNRISER
  • HAOJUE
  • MCX

Portugal

Russia

Slovenia

Spain

Taiwan

Thailand

Turkey

United Kingdom

United States

Manufacturers no longer in production

List of companies that formerly produced and sold motorcycles available to the public, including both street and race/off-road motorcycles. Also includes some former motorcycle producers of noted historical significance but who would today be classified as badge engineered or customisers. Includes both companies that are defunct, and those that still exist but no longer make motorcycles, and some that were acquired by other companies.

Australia

Austria

Belgium

Brazil

Bulgaria

Canada

Czech Republic

Denmark

Finland

France

Germany

East Germany

  • BMW — (1945–1952)
  • EMW — (1952–)
  • MZ —(-2009)

Greece

India

Italy

Japan

Mexico

New Zealand

Norway

Poland

Portugal

Russian Empire

Russia

  • Cossack —
  • GMZ — (1941–1949)
  • KMZ — (1945–1990)
  • MMZ — (1941, 1946–1951)
  • NATI — (1931–1933)
  • PMZ — (1935–1939)
  • TIZ — (1936–1941)
  • TMZ — (1941–1943)

Spain

Sweden

Switzerland

Ukraine

United Kingdom

United States

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10 Tips for Choosing a Motorcycle Helmet

The helmet is a motorcyclist’s most important piece of safety equipment. It is all about function, not fashion or farkle. Here is a list of important tips for selecting the top-performing and best helmet for you.

helmets 
Understand how a motorcycle helmet works. It’s comprised of 4 main components:
    • The hard outer shell  - specially designed to absorb and disseminate the impact.
    • The inner EPS (Styrofoam) protective lining to absorb and soften the impact of the head into the inside of the helmet – reducing the shock to the brain.
    • The chin-strap (retention system) to ensure the helmet remains on the head.
    • The soft fabric lining to ensure proper fit and fatigue-minimizing comfort.
  2. Choose a helmet certified with recognized safety standards and regulations. Novelty headwear does not constitute a helmet and offers no real protection to the head and especially not to the brain. Slapping a fake DOT sticker on the back of a “salad bowl” does not magically give it legal or protective qualities. The helmet is a motorcyclist’s most important piece of safety equipment. It is all about function, not fashion or farkle.The various testing agencies (DOT, ECE, Snell, BSI, etc) are certifying a helmet’s ability to protect your brain from trauma caused by your brain slamming against the inside of your skull in the event of sudden impact. Other tests are done on a it’s ability to disperse the impact force over the area of the hard outer shell and ensuring the chin strap will hold it in proper position and not allow it to rotate or come off.
  3. Choose a style – ½, ¾, full face, flip up. Some riders like the convenience of a 1/2 or 3/4 helmet and the feel of the wind on their faces. However, wherever the wind makes contact, the road  will make contact in the event of a crash.1/2 and 3/4 helmets offer the least protection, not only from trauma, but also from the elements, bugs, road debris and noise. Being exposed to the elements can negatively affect a rider’s comfort leading to fatigue, hindered concentration, or hearing loss.Full face helmets offer the most protection and comfort. Since most are designed to offer the added benefit of aerodynamics, they also minimize rider fatigue.
    Many riders are now opting for a flip-up or modular helmet which offers the protection of a full face  with the convenience of a 3/4 helmet. Not all modulars are created equal though.  Some are tested and certified for full face protection with the shock absorbing EPS in the chin bar. Others only offer protection from the elements.
  4. Determine proper fit. A helmet should be snug. Or better explained, like a good handshake, comfortably firm without causing discomfort or pain. The helmet should make contact all over your head and face. Try sticking a pinky between your forehead and the helmet —  you shouldn’t be able to get more than the very tip in.If you move it around, it should be tight enough that your skin moves with it.The best bet is to get properly fitted, have a dealer help you, starting with a head measurement. Good dealers have staff who are trained to properly fit helmets to heads. These experts help customers find the helmet type and size that best fits their heads and needs.
    Chose the helmet with best fit and comfort, spend the money to get the best protection, fit and comfort. If cared for properly, your motorcycle helmet should last up to 5 years.
  5. Replace a helmet that has been dropped or in a crash. Have you ever bitten into a styrofoam cup and noticed that the impressions from your teeth stay and don’t fill back out? This is what happens to the protective EPS when it does its job absorbing a blow and why helmets are ‘single-use’ items.Often a helmet can be damaged without any visible signs, so don’t take any chances.Falling is an unfortunate outcome that is virtually impossible to predict or avoid. When your helmet has fulfilled it’s single-use duty, be sure to replace it right away with another high-quality certified helmet.Some manufacturers offer replacement programs and some insurance companies will also replace the helmet, so do some research before you make a purchase.Look for  helmet replacement programs like Schuberth’s mobility program. A crashed pre-registered helmet can be replaced with a new one for 1/3 of the retail price.
  6. Note clarity of vision. It is just as critical to be able to see as it is to be seen, so select a helmet with a high-quality face shield. Some face shields are injection molded and basically optically perfect. Others are bent to the shape of the helmet which creates distortions.Additionally, note the amount of peripheral vision when the helmet is on and whether the face shield fogs up easily. Some come with an anti-fog coating and some come with a Pinlock® visor  – an internal lens that completely eliminates fogging.Some helmets come with an internal sun visor which is handy. It means  you won’t have to switch to a dark face shield when riding in bright light, or switch back to clear at night.
  7. Make sure the helmet has good ventilation. Getting airflow through the helmet isn’t just for comfort.  It’s important also for diluting any toxic gasses from exhaust that can build up inside the helmet. A chin vent is a must along with top vents that push air around the head. A properly venting helmet will have holes in the EPS liner which line up with the vent holes in the shell. Also, ventilation channels in the help direct a higher volume of air around the head toward the exhaust ports.
  8. Chose a helmet with a removable liner. Washing a motorcycle helmet will help prolong its useful life. The comfort liner is key to a proper fit (the snugness).  Sweat and hair products can cause it to break down faster.
  9. Consider communication. Some riders like to talk to fellow riders or listen to music and GPS instructions. There are many options for in-helmet speakers which use Bluetooth® technology to pair wirelessly to accessories.Many systems involve clipping a unit to the outside of the helmet which can cause added wind drag and noise.Other companies, like Schuberth, offer systems that can be fully integrated into the interior of the helmet.
  10. Never purchase a used helmet! Remember that a damaged helmet might not show any visible signs. You never know what you are getting with a used helmet. Saving a few bucks is not worth the risk of buying a helmet that won’t protect you when you need it.
Now you are ready to find a dealer and get fitted for a high-quality, protective motorcycle helmet!
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TOP TEN MOST EXPENSIVE MOTORCYCLES IN THE WORLD.


1. Ecosse ES1 Superbike – $3.6 million

When F1 engineers from the United Kingdom were commissioned to help create a superbike, speed was naturally the first order of the day. With its composite construction and electronic control system, this bike is fast, light and handles easily. American designers were on hand to give the bike an ergonomic fitment. During testing, the bike, which is powered by a modified IL4 engine, went at a top speed of 250 miles per hour and the engine was good enough for 200 bhp. This bike will only be built upon order.

2. Harley Davidson Cosmic Starship – $1 million

The artist Jack Armstrong owns this bike. Harley Davidson has long been a favorite of American bikers, and many have taken the liberty of customizing their ride. Armstrong had his Harley Davidson custom painted using his exclusive style called Cosmic Extensionalism. Extreme colors and textures were meshed into the bike, which Armstong calls the Cosmic Starship. Indeed, this is not just a motorcycle; it is pure artwork.

3. Dodge Tomahawk V10 Superbike – $555,000

Just looking at it and you know you’ve got a beast in your hands. The bike is equipped with an 8.3 liter, V10 engine that was sourced from the Dodge Viper. With 500 horsepower, the bike can go at a top speed of 420 miles per hour and can accelerate to 62 miles per hour in just 2.6 seconds. There are two wheels on both sides to provide extra stability.

4. Yamaha Roadstar BMS Chopper – $500,000

Nicknamed the Nehmesis after its creator Sam Nehme of BMS Choppers, this features a Yamaha Roadstar plated in gold. All the parts are gold-plated as well, with a red velvet seat providing a nice contrast to accentuate the bike’s look.

5. Ecosse Titanium Series FE Ti XX – $300,000

Only 10 of this were ever made. The bike features a 2.4i billet aluminum power plant that can rip out a loud 225 horsepower. And when you buy this bike, you get not just the motorcycle, but also a matching timepiece designed by BRM. To ensure authenticity, the clamps on the handlebar and the VIN plate are carved with matching serial numbers similar to that of the timepiece.

6. Ducati Desmosedici D16RR NCR M16 – $232,500

The Ducati Desmosedici D16RR is a nice bike that cost $72,500.  Take it to NCR for a tune up job, and if you are willing to shell out $160,000 for it, you will get this bike nicknamed the Millona 16. It is fast, with the Ducati 989cc V-4 motor that is already capable of 175 horsepower further tuned up to get it over 200 horsepower. Traction control, data recording and user-selectable maps have also been added. The bike is also powerful, with the frame, swing arm, wheels, fuel tank, fairing, tails and fenders made of carbon fiber. Other parts are made of titanium and avionic grade aluminum. It is also extremely light, coming in at 319 pounds, which is around 15 percent less than the original.

7. Ducati Testa Stretta NCR Macchia Nera Concept – $225,000

This bike has a V-2, four-stroke engine has a six-speed transmission and is capable of 185 horsepower with top speed that can go up to 230 miles per hour. The metals and alloys are made of titanium and aluminum, while the frame is made of carbon fiber. The bike is simple and is pleasing to the eye, with a uniqueness that makes it stand out from other custom bikes. Macchia Nera is Italian for Black Spot, but NCR sure hit the bull’s eye with this one.

8. Suzuki AEM Carbon Fiber Hayabusa – $160,000 to 200,000

This is a special bike created by Suzuki in collaboration with AEM. It was unveiled at the annual SEMA show in Las Vegas in 2008. The show is one of the most prestigious automotive shows in the world. The bike itself is built using nothing but carbon fiber, making it extremely light. The light frame also allows its engine, whose management system was done by AEM, to rev the bike up to 186 miles per hour.

9. MTT Turbine Streetfighter with Rolls Royce Turbine Engine – $175,000

This bike is armed with the Allison turbine engine from Rolls Royce. It can generate up to 320 horsepower with torque of 576 Newton meters, or Nm. If you still need some further speed, MTT can have it upgraded to 420 horsepower and 680 Nm. The bike has registered a top speed of 249 miles per hour. The frame is made of tubular aluminum, the 17-inch wheels of carbon fiber, two-speed automatic transmission that distributes power to the rear wheel as well, and Brembo brakes. It can run using either diesel or kerosene. It also has a rear-mounted camera and an LCD color display.

10. Icon Sheene – $172,000

Barry Sheene is a legendary British motorcycle road racer. Mike Fairholme, who had painted the helmets used by Sheene in the latter’s races, decided to create a tribute bike for the biking icon. Only 52 were built, and it features a 1400cc Suzuki engine with a Garrett turbocharger. It also has an image hand painted by Fairholme himself.
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TIPS FOR THE MOTORCYCLE PASSENGER

Riding on a motorcycle with a friend is one of the most fun things you can do. It can be an even more enjoyable experience if the passenger understands and follows a few simple rules. To be the kind of passenger riders want to ride with, remember the following:

1. Wear clothing that will give you some protection in the unlikely event of a spill. As a minimum, you should wear the following to protect yourself:
  • Footwear that protects your feet and your ankles (hiking boots are good).
  • Durable pants. Leather is best; lacking leather, you will have to make do with heavy (14 ounce) jeans, or something similar.
  • An abrasion resistant jacket that zips or buttons up close to the neck (again, leather is best if you have it; a nylon flight jacket or parka are satisfactory and a Levis-type jacket will do in a pinch).
  • Durable leather gloves.
  • Eye protection; ideally, the helmet you borrow or own should have a face shield for comfort, as well as protection. If it does not, goggles are good and glasses (dark or prescription) will do.
2. You should also attempt to dress appropriately for the weather. If you have not ridden very much, you probably do not realize how hot or how cold it can be on a motorcycle. If it is hot, it will feel a lot hotter while you are riding; if it is cold, it will feel a lot colder while you are riding. Ask the rider for advice about dressing for the anticipated conditions, but don't compromise your minimum level of protection as described above.
On hot sunny days, one trick is to wear an extra large white shirt over your jacket. It will reflect a lot of heat and help keep you cool. In general, it is easier to dress safely and comfortably for a cool day than for a hot one. Lastly, don't wear anything loose and floppy (like a long scarf or bell bottom pants) that could get caught in the rear wheel, sprockets, drive chain or belt, or any other moving part of the motorcycle. You could injure yourself and might cause an accident.

3. Wear a securely fastened helmet that fits properly. Most riders have extra helmets and will be glad to loan you one. A helmet should be a snug fit; it should not be possible to twist it around on your head. The strap should be pulled as tight as you can get it. You can test for fit and to see if the strap is tight, like this: grasp the chin bar of a full coverage helmet, or the edge of an open face helmet directly over your forehead, and try to pull the helmet backwards off your head. If the helmet winds up on the back of your head, tighten the strap or get a helmet that fits.
The rider can show you how to put on your helmet properly and easily (you kind of roll it onto your head from the front). If you ride often, you will eventually want to buy your own helmet. Just about any motorcycle shop should be able help you pick out a suitable helmet that fits you correctly.

4. Before you attempt to mount the motorcycle, make sure that the passenger footpegs are down. (They fold up when not in use and it is easy for the rider to forget to put them down for you.) If you don't know where the footpegs are, have the rider point them out to you.
Beware of the hot exhaust pipes. Make sure you know where they are and don't let your leg or any part of your body touch them when you mount or dismount the motorcycle. They can give you a severe burn right through the heaviest pants.

5. It is customary to get on or off the motorcycle from the left side. Always wait for the rider to tell you it's okay to mount or dismount. If you start to clamber on (or off) when the rider does not expect it, the sudden weight change on the motorcycle will be disconcerting, at best. You might pull the motorcycle over, a big no-no.

6. Here is the best way to get on a motorcycle and the method all adult passengers should use: extend your right leg over the seat and then slide gently up onto the seat. Put your feet on the footpegs and you are onboard! It is all a question of balance; the rider is not strong enough to force a big motorcycle to stay upright if you cause it to get out of balance.
To dismount, just reverse the process you used to get on. With a little practice, getting on and off will become second nature.

7. Once you are on the motorcycle, plant your feet on the passenger footpegs and keep them there. You absolutely do not want to bring your foot into contact with the rear wheel, drive chain or belt, or the hot muffler. Never attempt to help the rider hold the bike upright when it is stopped. Keep your feet safe by keeping them on the foot pegs at all times.

8. Place your hands on the rider's hips. That is the best way to hold on to the rider and it keeps you in touch with the rider's movements. Keep your weight centered over the motorcycle. Try not to move around any more than is necessary, particularly when the motorcycle is stopped, as it affects the balance of the motorcycle.

9. Motorcycles turn by leaning (banking like an airplane), not by steering like a car. Don't be alarmed when the motorcycle leans over to go around a corner. To position yourself perfectly for a turn, just look over the rider's shoulder in the direction of the turn. If the motorcycle is turning right, look over the rider's right shoulder; if it is turning left, look over the rider's left shoulder. Always do this, without fail.
You don't have to do anything else; looking naturally over the rider's inside shoulder will automatically put your weight right where it belongs in a turn. Keep your body in line with the rider's body to prevent the motorcycle from leaning more than the rider intends. (When going straight, it doesn't matter which shoulder you look over.) Never lean out of a turn; you could cause an accident that way, which is another big no-no.

10. When the rider puts on the brakes it causes a forward weight transfer. If the rider is forced to break hard, as in an emergency, this forward weight transfer is very apparent; you will be forced against the rider, and you will start to slide forward on the seat. Don't panic. Try to keep back, away from the rider. Resist sliding forward by pressing your feet against the footpegs; use your thigh muscles to control your position on the seat.
If you slide forward, you force the rider forward, reducing the rider's control over the motorcycle. It also moves the weight distribution of the motorcycle forward, reducing the weight on the rear tire and therefore the traction of the rear tire, making it more likely that the back tire will start to skid. Obviously, none of this is desirable.

11. You can be an active participant in the ride by staying alert and being prepared. Help the rider look for potential danger and be prepared to hang on and hold yourself back if you anticipate a need for sudden braking. Likewise, if the rider is forced to swerve the motorcycle to avoid a hazard in the road, you need to be prepared for the sudden lean and change of direction.

You can also help the rider scan for animals that may run into the road. Dogs and deer are particularly unpredictable and you may see a deer on a hillside above the road, or a dog in somebody's front yard, before the rider. (After all, the rider is concentrating primarily on the road.) If you spot a hazard of any sort that you think the rider is unaware of, tap the rider on the appropriate shoulder and point at the hazard in a way that brings it to the rider's attention.
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Thursday, June 5, 2014

UPDATE KEHADIRAN KE KIBW 2014



Tq atas sokongan tuan, pihak kami amat-amat mengalu-alukan kehadiran tuan
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Tuesday, June 3, 2014

PENUNGGANG SEJATI


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3 MINUTE CHECK

Got Three Minutes?

A quick check to insure your next motorcycle ride is a great one

Motorcycle check"What a day for a ride," you think to yourself.
What you should be thinking, though, is "Is my ride ready for the day?"
It's a valid question, no matter how often or infrequent you ride. Either on-the-road usage and vibration or in-the-garage inactivity can take their toll on your bike, potentially degrading safety, control, performance and comfort.
That's why the Motorcycle Safety Foundation recommends a short pre-ride check of your favorite two-wheeler before every ride. To help you remember what to check, the MSF came up with the acronym T-CLOCS, which stands for Tires, Controls, Lights, Oil, Chassis and Sidestand.
These are simple, easy-to-access items that anyone who rides should be able to identify and check. And despite the length of the MSF's list, you can probably check everything in about three minutes. Depending on what you find, that could be the best three minutes you spend all day.

Tires and wheels

Since these are where you and the road meet, they're probably the most important things to look over. A problem can affect handling—sometimes severely.
Are your rims free of dings? Are your spokes tight and straight? Check pressures in both tires. Since most manufacturers specify pressures for cold tires, this is the only accurate way to check them, as they heat up quickly on the road, raising the pressure. Consult your owner's manual or call your tire manufacturer's hotline for the proper pressures for your particular bike.
If you own multiple bikes, it may be difficult to remember all those different tire specs. And since this is one of those critical things you should check often, you may want to make a small card with each tire's recommended pressure, then hang it on your garage wall, or anywhere that's handy.
While you're down there checking the tires, make sure you've got plenty of tread. You should have more than 1/16 of an inch, about the distance between Lincoln's head and the top of a penny. Remove foreign objects that may have lodged in the treads, and make sure there aren't any cuts in the tire. A scuff is nothing to be worried about, but if it's a deep scratch, you might want to have it checked.

Controls and cables


Motorcycle cables A snapped throttle or clutch cable can leave you on the side of the road, so check 'em. Operate anything connected to a cable and make sure that levers and cables feel smooth and don't bind. Apply the front brake and push the bike forward. The brake should feel firm, and the front wheel should not move. Check the rear brake in the same fashion.

Lights

Seeing and being seen are two great ways to avoid unwanted incidents on the road, so making sure your lights work is key.
Start by turning on your ignition. Are the headlight's high beam and low beam working? Does the taillight come on? Does the brake light come on when you depress the brake pedal and lever? Check left and right turn signals, front and rear. Remember that the cause of a malfunction here could be a relay or bulb.
Lastly, don't forget to check your horn.

Oil and fuel


Oil & fuel

Running out of gas is a bummer, but since many motorcycles don't have gas gauges, it's a very real possibility. Check the gas level in the tank, and be sure your fuel petcock isn't on "reserve," which could leave you with a nasty surprise if you roll to a stop thinking you've still got gas in reserve. And don't forget to reset the tripmeter every time you fill up.
Running out of gas can be inconvenient, but running out of oil can turn your bike into an inert display of public art. Even some new bikes can use enough oil to be down a quart between oil changes, so check it before every ride.

Chassis


Chassis

Though an improperly adjusted suspension may not seem critical, imagine your surprise as your bike behaves differently in the middle of a curve because you forgot to reset it after picking up your friend last night.
SpringSit on the bike and rock it, making sure that everything moves smoothly and relatively slowly. If the front or rear end behaves like a pogo stick, a trip to your trusty mechanic should be in your immediate future.
If you have an adjustable suspension, remember to read your owner's manual and adjust it properly for the load you'll be carrying and the type of riding you'll be doing.

Sidestand and centerstand

The sidestand is a handy little item—it's what keeps your motorcycle off the ground. Make sure it's not cracked or bent. Check the spring or springs. Are they in place, and do they have enough tension to keep the sidestand safely up?
Don't forget to look at the engine cut-out switch or pad, if so equipped.
If everything's in place and operating properly you're done, and you're good to go. Enjoy the day.
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